Some of you may recall a monument on top of a hillside that is located on camino frances between Villafranca Montes de Oca and San Juan de Ortega. This is the Monumento de los Caidos. Not much is mentioned in Brierley's guide book; he notes that this is a "stark monument to the fallen of the civil war". The first time I saw this I reflected that the camino frances covers some ground during Spain's civil war that was held by the Nationalists (Franco) and some ground that was held by the Republicans. I've read several books on Spain's civil war and there were many atrocities committed by both sides. Monuments are constructed to recall those that perished on both sides of the war and to help the healing. One of our walking companions during several days of our 2017 camino was "Michael", an Irish citizen and mayor of a small town. The topic of the Spanish civil war came up and he commented that one of his uncles fought in the civil war on the Nationalist side. Many historians paint Francisco Franco as a monster. However, he fought fiercely for the Catholic church and kept Spain from becoming a Communist country. In addition, Franco kept a neutral position during WWII, keeping Spain out of the war. There is an even more well known monument to the fallen, located a short distance from Madrid. It is called "Valley of the Fallen". There is a huge granite cross that can be seen for miles. It sits on top of a mausoleum which houses the remains of victims killed on both sides of the civil war. The body of Francisco Franco is buried there. I first visited the Valley of the Fallen in 1978 during one semester abroad. I thought the entire monument inside and outside was very dignified. Over time, some have complained that it glorifies Franco's regime and feel strongly that his remains should not be buried near his victims. In last weekend's WSJ there was a story with the title "Spain says Franco's Remains to be Moved from Public Burial Site". Spain's center-left government has decided that Franco's remains will be exhumed in coming months and will be reburied in another site. Spain's parliament will likely approve amendments to existing law to allow the move. Past governments have been reluctant to make any changes since there were many supporters of Franco and its best to not reopen many wounds of the past. The WSJ further reports that the leader of Spain's socialist party is eager to solidify his popularity in a divided political left. "Measures to remove remnants of the Franco era from the Spanish public life tend to be popular amount left leaning voters." Let's all hope that the change by Spain's current socialist government do not provoke anger or retaliation by many in Spain that have a more balanced view of history.