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Once Again Coming To The Well For Advice - Fromista To Leon

Discussion in 'Camino Frances' started by Greg Canning, Aug 10, 2017.

  1. Greg Canning

    Greg Canning Well-Known Member

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    Hi all

    Once again I'm looking for advice from you all. We are hoping to grab a week in late September to early October (probably Sunday to Sunday based on flights). I've figured out so far that my best option to get to Fromista (where we finished in April) is a flight to Santander which arrives around 4.30 pm. This means a night in Santander with a train to Fromista the following morning arriving between 11 and 12. We can then start walking to Carrion de los Condes (I know it's starting at mid-day but it's only 20 kms on the flat and we can take our time).

    Here's the rest of the walk for that week. Any suggestions of alternatives and recommendations for places to stay?

    Frómista - Carrión de los Condes 19.5 kms
    Carrión de los Condes - Lédigos 23.9 kms
    Lédigos - Calzada del Coto (FR 0,6 km) 21.3 kms
    Calzada del Coto (FR 0,6 km) - Reliegos 26.8 kms
    Reliegos - León 25.3 and that is a toal of 116.8

    We then have to make our way back to Santander for our return flight.

    Looking forward to hearing from you guys.

    Buen Camino

    Greg
     
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  2. Wily

    Wily Camino Francés 2016; Camino Portugués 2017

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    Hey Greg - How lucky you are to be heading back over again so soon. You're correct that the walk from Fromista to Carrión is flat and easy. If there's still room when you arrive, I'd highly recommend trying to get beds at Albergue Santa Maria. The late afternoon sing-a-long with the Augustinian Sisters was quite special.

    The next day, I went just a tad farther than Lédigos and stayed in Terradillos de los Templarios. There, I stayed at the new Los Templarios which was quite nice.

    I only walked through Calzada del Coto where I then caught the alternate route along the old Via Romana up to Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos.

    In León, I stayed at the León Hostel only a block or so from the cathedral. Again, another nice spot where it would have been possible to sornd more thsn one night.

    I was able to reserve beds in both Terradillos and León.

    It sounds like you have a great five days of walking planned for the fall. Buen Camino.
     
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  3. Greg Canning

    Greg Canning Well-Known Member

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    Hi Wily

    And once again thanks for the prompt response. Can I ask was the alternate route worth the detour and how much did it add? From Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos where did you get back to the regular route?

    Are 27 km days reasonable on this section? I think from my early experience of the Meseta that they would seem to be.

    Thanks

    Greg
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2017
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  4. Wily

    Wily Camino Francés 2016; Camino Portugués 2017

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    Hey Greg - As it happened that day, a Camino friend and I walked the alternative route and we pretty much had it to ourselves. It was pribably the most peaceful stretch of walking I experienced in the Camino. From Calzada del Coto to Calzada de Los Hermanillos it's a pretty straight, flat 8 km. Very easy walking. I had reservations at the Albergue Via Trajana. It was more like a home, no bunk beds, and served excellent food. In fact, most of the people staying at the municipal came here for dinner. Calzada is a very quiet town, but with a nice front terrace at the Via Trajana and a cold glass of beer, one could enjoy the peacefulness of rural Spain.

    The next day, the alternate route angles back toward Reliegos, so, overall, if there were any additional kilometers, they were minimal. Because the Camino can be crowded, the day and a half on the alternate route were relaxing from the perspective that it seemed as though I was the only pilgrim walking to Santiago. I also enjoyed the historical significance of walking along the old Roman route.
     
  5. BROWNCOUNTYBOB

    BROWNCOUNTYBOB Well-Known Member

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    Greg - lucky you, two camino experiences in the same year ! Here are the places we will be staying for our upcoming camino. Several of these are different than where we stayed in 2015. We have confirmed reservations for all of these. I've listed two locations in Leon. We are taking a rest day there and splurging the second night.
    • Fromista - Albergue Estrella del Camino - 8 euros per person - reserved directly with albergue
    • Carrion de los Condes - Casa Tia Paula - private two bedroom apartment for four of us. 20 euros per person (reserved on Booking.com)
    • Terradillos de los Templarios - Albergue los Templarios - I fully agree with Wily's comments. We stayed here in 2015. Two bunkbeds and private bathroom. 10 euros per person. Wonderful bar and restaurant in same albergue.. Reserved directly with albergue
    • Calzadilla de las Hermanillos - Albergue Via Trajana - same place that Wily stayed. Double room with private bath 40 euros. Reserved directly with albergue
    • Mansanilla de las Mulas - Albergue Gaia. 5 euros per bed. Reserved directly with albergue
    • Leon - Albergue Muralla Leonesa. Room with two bunkbeds for four of us. 17.5 euros per person including breakfast. Reserved on Booking.com
    • Leon - Parador de Leon. Twin bed with private bath. Includes free drink and breakfast. 140.26 euros. Reservation made on Paradors.com
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2017
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  6. Wily

    Wily Camino Francés 2016; Camino Portugués 2017

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    Hey Greg - Not sure that I answered all your questions. From Calzada de Los Hermanillos, the alternate route parallels the main route up to Reliegos. It's a pretty long stretch of about 16-17 km without services. However, it is flat and easy walking. I carried an extra bottle of water here along with some snacks. If you were to go that way as I did, I went on past Reliegos to Mansilla de las Mulas. A nice town with lots of eateries and services. I stayed at the very pleasant Albergue Gaia found just as you enter town. So, on this section of the Camino, walking 27 km or so a day is reasonable. Buen Camino.
     
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  7. Greg Canning

    Greg Canning Well-Known Member

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    Bob and Wily

    Thanks again...whatever about the Camino providing this Forum certainly does. Lots of food for though. Looks like we will be heading out on the 24th and starting from Fromista on the 26th (just have to get the leave sanctioned!!!).

    Thanks again and Buen Camino

    Greg
     
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  8. Greg Canning

    Greg Canning Well-Known Member

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    Hi All and once again thanks for all the help and advice.

    Here is my itinerary for my next Stage of the Camino.

    We fly to Madrid on Sunday 24 September. I had of course forgotten everyone's advice about how much easier it is to get from Madrid to the provincial towns and had spent a long time trying to figure out a connection from Santander to Fromista on that Sunday. The closest I could get was to Osorno and that was arriving around 10.45pm. So I booked at a flight to Madrid (very red-eye unfortunately) and a train from Madrid to Fromista which gets in at 6pm. so all good. I can't remember who it was but someone here previously highly recommended the Hotel Dona Mayor in Fromista and I've managed to reserve a room (last time it was full). We start walking on Monday and this is our route:-

    Monday - Frómista - Carrión de los Condes (19.5 kms) and staying at Casa Tia Paula
    Tuesday - Carrión de los Condes - Terradillos de los Templarios 27.2 kms and staying at Albergue de Los Templarios
    Wednesday - Terradillos de los Templarios - Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos 25.7 and hopefully staying at Albergue via Trajana (awaiting confirmation)
    Thursday - Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos - Mansilla de las Mulas 23.2 kms and staying at La Pension de Blanca
    Friday - Mansilla de las Mulas - León 19.1 and staying at the Hospederia Monastica Pax (a refurbished and still functioning Monastery. The Parador was just too expensive at €225 for the night so I will look again when we go back to start again in Leon.

    We fly back from Madrid on Sunday 1 October.

    Anyway that's the way it's looking for now. Once again thank you all for the advice.

    Buen Camino

    Greg
     
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  9. Wily

    Wily Camino Francés 2016; Camino Portugués 2017

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    Hey Greg - Sounds like a great five days of hiking. It's a nery nice section of the CF that you and your wife will be going through. Most envious! Nice daily distances and good albergues! I will just have to experience it vicariously as you enjoy some of the new seasonal wines. Buen Camino!
     
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  10. BROWNCOUNTYBOB

    BROWNCOUNTYBOB Well-Known Member

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    Greg, your Sept camino looks great! Too bad about the expensive parador in Leon. That may be due to Friday night stay. One thing to look into for the future is to check rates at the paradors website (link pasted in below).
    http://www.parador.es/en/ofertas/especiales

    I originally booked nights at three different paradors for our upcoming camino. I made the reservations on Expedia. I decided to check the paradors website and they had a special for peregrinos. The rates were around 15% lower than Expedia, so I cancelled with Expedia and rebooked on the parador website. Also, you can sign up for a frequent stayer membership (Amigos de Paradors) to get special deals and frequent stay points. The rates we have for our next camino are:
    • Santo Domingo de la Calzada = 120 euros (room for 2, breakfast and arrival drinks included)
    • Leon = 140 euros
    • Villafranca del Bierzo = 90 euros
    Since you are staying at Albergue los Templarios, it was a great experience for us. Many of the rooms have two bunkbeds and a private bath. The bar and restaurant were terrific. A few quirks about this place - the laundry area is towards the back of the building. There is a nearby exit door that leads to the back yard where you can hang your laundry. The hospitaleros insisted that the door remained closed. So this required us to walk to the front lobby around the side of the building to the back yard to hang our laundry, and use the same route to retrieve our laundry. The other thing that bothered me was that the lobby and bar are adjacent to the hallway with the pilgrim rooms. When they shut things down for the night, they lock the door to the lobby, so we're locked in with no easy way to escape. I wondered what would happen if there was a fire. Also, many places lock the front door, but you can leave in the morning and the door simply locks when you leave. At Albergue los Templarios, there were several of us queued up at 7 am in the hallway waiting until the hospitalero came and let us out. All in all, it's a great place and we're staying there again this camino.

    Hey Greg, I just compared your itinerary to mine and realized we'll both be staying there on Sept 26! I'll be with my wife, brother and his wife. Please look for us in the bar or at dinner. Will be great to meet you and say hello! Bob
     
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  11. Greg Canning

    Greg Canning Well-Known Member

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    Hi Bob

    That's great news it will be great to put a face to the name :) Of course being Irish there's little chance of me being near a bar!!!

    As to the Parador, you are definitely right. It's the Friday night that's the killer, a night earlier and we could have gotten it for around €89!!!

    But we will make sure to book well in advance on our return.

    Buen Camino

    Greg
     
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  12. Wily

    Wily Camino Francés 2016; Camino Portugués 2017

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    Hey Bob and Greg - Just wanted to let you know that at the Albergue los Temparios, there is a back exit for early morning departures. It was as easy as going out the door and walking around to the front. A number of us were leaving around 06:30 and were able to escape quite nicely. But, you're correct that in most of the albergues where I stayed, it was just a matter of exiting through the front with the door locking behind you. Although, I remember in Trabadelo that with no staff in sight and no other exits other than the locked front door, I had to go out through the bathroom window (sounds like a Joe Cocker song doesn't it?). A kind pilgrim passing by at that moment assisted me with my backpack. It's all part of the charm of traveling and the Camino! Greg, do try the sangria at Los Temparios. It was quite good! Buen Camino!
     
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  13. BROWNCOUNTYBOB

    BROWNCOUNTYBOB Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, Wily. That's probably the same door they kept shut for those of us doing laundry. Will check this out next time.
     
  14. Greg Canning

    Greg Canning Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Wily....for both the tips :)
     
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  15. ctpilgrim

    ctpilgrim New Member

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    You might want to consider taking the bus direct to Burgos (every hour or two; takes about three hours) or Palencia from Terminal 4 at Barajas and then back from Leon to Terminal 4 (four to five hours) rather than flying to Santander. You would likely need to take a cab from Burgos or Palencia to Fromista (or only to Castrojeriz or Hontanas if you gain time and want to walk in to Fromista) because there are not many buses. You would likely save time for walking and money, and would not have to worry about the last flight connection
     
  16. hindsfeet

    hindsfeet Donating Member Donating Member

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    Wily...I would give anything to see a video of you going out the bathroom window..Haaaaaaaaa. I will remember that escape (might come in handy)
     
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  17. Wily

    Wily Camino Francés 2016; Camino Portugués 2017

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    Hey Hindsfeet - It was my good fortune that the bathroom was on the ground floor! Not knowing what time the front door would be unlocked, it just seemed like the best option so as to get on the trail for the climb up to O'Cebreiro. But, as Bob and I were mentioning, although the front door is locked at most places, you can still get out (using that door). It is certainly one of my fond Camino memories. You will have many of your own! Buen Camino!
     
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  18. Greg Canning

    Greg Canning Well-Known Member

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    Hi CT

    Thanks for the tips I'll certainly check them out.

    Buen Camino

    Greg
     
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